From Paris the best new high jewellery designs 2022.

It is a fact that haute couture shows take the lion's share of the spotlight in Paris during the first week of July each year.

As all of Paris returns to its pre-pandemic state of joie de vivre, so do the high jewellery shows. With unique designs that represent the pinnacle of a house's craftsmanship and ability to source unique stones.

The presentations by houses like Chanel and Dior seemed a little more impressive and theatrical. Also from Place Vendôme, Boucheron and Chaumet. And as the latest designs prove, unique jewellery is anything but boring these days.

Boucheron

Boucheron's artistic director Claire Choisne continues to push the boundaries of high jewellery. Boucheron's boutique has been in Place Vendôme since 1893. This season, Choisne designed motifs that look a little otherworldly while using nature. As part of the “Earth Woman” line, she has created this brooch, dubbed “Bois Diamant” or “Diamond Wood”. She used flower petals so that each detail can then be rendered in rosewood. He then placed them in a perforated gold structure, with diamond-decorated titanium backers.

Cartier

Stones in fascinating cuts and colours are the key to Cartier's Beautés du Monde collection of fine jewellery. The collection truly showcases the “beauty of the world” through its designs. As part of Beautés du Monde, a collection of seven rings highlights rare stones. This Yasifan ring highlights a 28.43-carat-cut Paraiba tourmaline in 18-carat white gold. It is surrounded by cabochon-cut rubies and brilliant-cut diamonds.

Chanel

In November 1932, Coco Chanel presented to the public a collection of high quality diamond jewellery. Many of them were inspired by the stars in the sky: “I wanted to cover women with constellations,” she said at the time. Ninety years later, the house pays tribute to Chanel's groundbreaking collection. More than 70 pieces, evoking the themes of the sun, moon and stars, were presented at the Grand Palais Éphémère. Chanel transformed the Éphémère into a museum environment. It was there that she presented the 1932 collection that included this Comète Saphir necklace. Featuring a cushion-shaped sapphire weighing a total of 6.56 carats and white diamonds and sapphires in 18-carat white gold.

Chaumet

Like Boucheron, Chaumet is a member of Place Vendôme. It has established its workshops and boutique there since 1907. The establishment of the house dates back more than a century and it was the official jeweler of Napoleon I in 1802. Chaumet's latest collection of fine jewellery is Ondes et Merveilles, or ’Waves and Wonders“. A retrospective on nature, in particular the effect of light and movement on water. This ”Escales“ ring features a Paraiba tourmaline in the shape of a pear. It is flanked by diamonds and spinels, and it is no coincidence that the configuration is reminiscent of a tiara, a typical Chaumet piece.

Chopard

At the Cannes Film Festival, Chopard presented its latest collection of fine jewellery, entitled “Chopard Loves Cinema”. A 75-piece tribute to the 75th anniversary of the festival. Many designs were co-chair and artistic director Caroline Scheufele's homage to iconic films. Several pieces are simply striking jewelry without a film at the heart of their inspiration. These earrings fall into that category. They have a symmetrical setting of fancy-cut pink sapphires, weighing a total of 10.71 carats. Also white diamonds totaling 7.28 carats in 18-karat white and rose gold with Fairmined certification.

Cindy Chao

Taiwan-based fine jewellery designer Cindy Chao presented a curated selection of her latest pieces. The presentation took place in a suite at the Ritz Paris. Chao's Morning Seine bracelet features a 50.53-carat Sri Lankan sapphire in the shape of a marshmallow. It is also surrounded by yellow and white diamonds, sapphires and rhodolite, all in 18-carat yellow, white and rose gold.

David Yurman

In Paris, David, Sybil Yurman and their son Evan, design director, inaugurated their new boutique on Rue Saint-Honoré. They also celebrated with an impressive private dinner at the Louvre Museum. The latest high jewellery pieces also made their debut. One of them is the Stax Baguette ring. It has white diamonds around a 12.73-carat pink sapphire set in 18-carat white gold.

Dior

Dior first released its latest high jewellery collection in June at a high-profile event in Sicily. But in a last-minute decision, the Dior team decided on a 137-piece re-launch of the collection. They called it “Dior Print” and it was held at the lavishly renovated headquarters and the adjacent boutique on Avenue Montaigne. This colorful collection evokes pieces of haute couture ribbon and fabric in a design studio. But it can be backed up by the exceptionally talented hands of designer Victoire de Castellane. This brooch does indeed look like a wavy ribbon. A ribbon made of round sapphires, emeralds and diamonds in 18-carat white gold.

Graff

Incredible stones are the key to any Graff fine jewellery presentation. But sometimes this London-based house really does create a surprise. That's the case with this necklace, crafted from more than 180 carats of yellow and white diamonds. It includes a 22.08-carat yellow pear-shaped diamond. The diamond is set with white pear-shaped diamonds and is also detachable. White and yellow gold were used for the diamond settings, with the latter being used to enhance the yellow diamonds.

Messika

Valerie Messika has been inspired by the seductive influences of Egypt. She has named her latest collection of fine jewellery “Beyond the Light”. Designs that embrace asymmetry and exquisite stones, with the most striking in the collection being the Akh-Ba-Ka necklace. A design that evokes the rebirth of a palm tree and also features an amazing story. Messika was given a rough diamond weighing a total of 110 carats. From this she created a design made from 15 stones, all made from the same rough diamond. She included a 33 carat cushion-shaped diamond that is arguably the star of the piece. “I wanted to challenge myself by using the group of 15 diamonds together,” Messika explained in her presentation at the Hôtel de Crillon.

Piaget

The many shades of the night sky during the winter solstice inspired Piaget's latest collection of fine jewellery. The presentation took place at the house's Rue de la Paix boutique. From the glow of pink at dusk to the dark blue at midnight, Piaget's Solstice explores the play of light and colour during the longest night of the year. This Flamboyant Nightfall ring features a 7.89-carat Madagascar-cut cushion-cut sapphire in 18-karat white gold. It is surrounded by pear-shaped, marquise and brilliant-cut diamonds and the central part of the design, which includes the sapphire, can be removed to be worn as a single-stone ring.

Pomellato

Creative director Vincenzo Castaldo was inspired by the hues that appear from sunrise to sunset in his latest high jewelry collection La Gioia di Pomellato. “A Walk in Nature” explores not only how colors change with each passing hour. But also the reflection of light in the myriad elements that surround us. This Light Blue Reef Riviere necklace instantly inspires thoughts of the sun on a sparkling pool. With the union of five baroque aquamarine, beautifully simple stones that total over 150 carats. Each one has surrounding rows of diamonds and is connected by an 18-carat white gold chain with diamond elements.

Tasaki

The presentation of Prabal Gurung's latest collection was held at the Ritz Paris for the Japanese pearl house's Tasaki Atelier. The Tasaki Atelier 5 collection has influences from nature such as waterfalls, pearl shells or a rainbow. Gurung's designs have the ability to combine elements of colour and asymmetry with the beauty of pearls. In this way he creates pieces that look anything but traditional. This single earring combines Akoya pearls and South Sea pearls with diamonds, fire opals, Paraiba tourmalines, yellow sapphires and other stones. All set in 18-karat white gold to create a fluid, romantic design that fits the right ear beautifully.

Van Cleef & Arpels

Fans of Van Cleef & Arpels know that one of the most captivating signatures of the house is its mystery-set jewellery. The rich look of stones artfully placed so that the metal underneath disappears. The “Legend of Diamonds” 2022 high jewelry collection was a tribute to this beloved design element. It belongs to the collection called “25 Mystery-Set Jewels”. Several designs use the mystery-set technique and create pieces inspired by rows of rubies, sapphires or emeralds accented by diamonds. Among the stars of the collection is this “Chevron Mysterieux” necklace. It combines mystery settings in emeralds, sapphires and diamonds with the charm of detachable jewels. This necklace can be worn six ways. The center pendant, which features a 31.24-carat pear-shaped diamond, detaches to be worn on its own chain. The pendants with pear-shaped diamonds flanking the central pendant can also be detached and worn as earrings.