About 20 years ago, the term “self-purchaser” became the new buzzword in jewellery retail. Working women with buying power realized that they didn't need a man to buy them jewelry.
They could do it themselves. They wanted pieces that marked milestones in their lives. They also began to prefer more personalized styles that spoke to their personality, rather than jewelry that kept up with their peers.
In 2003, De Beers noticed this trend and launched its most influential advertising campaign since 1946, entitled “A diamond is forever”.
“Women of the World, Raise Your Right Hand” was aimed at women who have been successful in their careers. It said they could buy diamond rings for their right hand. That is, rings that were not associated with marriage, as the left hand was traditionally for wedding rings.
All of this has resulted in the woman buying on her own becoming a huge part of the market. So designers and retailers got into the game as more and more women bought expensive pieces for themselves.
When selling to women, stores need to align their marketing with their mission.
The Zaver & Mor retail store in Berkeley, California “is a space created by a woman, for women.” That's what owner Rada Sahney says, and she projects that message throughout her branding. “We honor women small designers and choose pieces for every aspect of a woman's life. So, our message is about women's anthem in jewellery.”.
At Max's retail store in the Twin Cities, Minnesota, “our main customer group is women who buy on their own,” says owner Ellen Hertz. “As a result, all of our marketing is geared toward women. We often use the slogans or hashtags “Own your style” or “Let your style be your statement.
Our message is about the pleasure women get when they buy their own jewellery.”.
Laura Freedman's strategy is based on her own experience as a jewelry buyer. “I think about how I'd like to be presented and what I'd like to wear,” says the owner of Broken English, which has boutiques in New York and Santa Monica, California. “Our marketing, like the jewelry, is relevant and authentic. It always speaks to the small and big memories and moments in a woman's life, touching her on an emotional level.”.
The in-store experience is a vital aspect of serving self-purchasers. It starts from the displays and décor to how well salespeople know the product and treat customers.
There was a time when a woman who walked into a traditional jewelry store was ignored if she didn't have a man with her.
But times have changed, jewellers have redesigned their stores. They have also trained their staff to ensure they offer the service a woman deserves.
Sari Brown, owner of LuxCouture, has created an environment that caters to every need of female customers. Her store in Newton Highlands, Massachusetts differs from other respondents in that she sells accessories and fine jewelry.
“We have configured the store so that we can style our customers from head to toe,” he says. “We spend time asking questions about their personal style and what jewelry they already have. Even how we can help them with choosing pieces that work best with different types of clothing.”.
Although shops that only sell jewellery don't have the capacity for this kind of service, they can have a space that is relaxed and pressure-free.
“Our store is designed to make women feel comfortable, warm and familiar,” Sahney says. “This creates a more welcoming and accessible space for women who feel they can sample, chat, have a drink or enjoy a dessert. We encourage a more personal “girlfriend” shopping experience versus a retailer and customer environment.”.
Hertz agrees that “for women, there's nothing better than trying things. When we reopened after Covid-19 closed, I was really surprised by how many women came in to buy something for themselves because they just wanted to feel good or buy something nice.”.
Perhaps the most important aspect of selling to women who buy on their own is to have styles that will resonate with them.
Freedman offers a mix of meaningful charms and amulets, and contemporary classics. Also affordably priced on trend-relevant pieces and unique miniature artwork.
In the symbolic-jewellery category, Foundrae is one of the best-selling brands. Anita Ko fits a bolder take on the classics, while the EF Collection features cool, contemporary pieces that “won't cost a fortune”. Silvia Furmanovich is one of Freedman's handmade designers.
Hertz's designers are all independent and the company is a one-stop shop for some of the most creative talent in the business. Brands that have done well include Amáli Jewelry, Erica Molinari, Annie Fensterstock and Rebecca Overmann.
Brown has found success with modern versions of classic diamond jewellery. Such as Jade Trau's tennis necklaces and the expandable diamond bracelets of up-and-coming brand Gemma Couture. She cites “less interest in ”neck mess” and more in elegant layered, textured gold and diamond necklace ranges.
The many put together rings have given way to more statement styles. Wearing a ring on each finger or opting for stamps, wider bands and gemstone rings.”.
A big lure for the self-purchaser is a story. Namely who the designer is, how the jewelry is made and what the pieces symbolize.
“Women love to hear all the details and stories behind the jewelry,” Freedman says. “They are also attracted to conversation starters: Silvia Furmanovich's marquetry pieces and the language of [Foundrae's] dogma.”.
Beyond that, Brown says, “women want to be informed about what they're buying. Knowing either the story behind the brand or the techniques they use really drives the perception of the value of the jewelry, especially from designers like Jade Trau and Andy Lif.”.
Being an example yourself is also helpful, Sahney notes. “Showing how jewelry can be worn and how to mix designers or metals are all selling points.
I wear a lot of mixed jewellery and a lot together to encourage my clients to be more comfortable doing the same.”.
“My goal is also to help with what my clients want. Therefore, I stress the importance of finding pieces for them to wear several times a week. They will also wear them from morning to evening or from casual to formal.”.
“The difficulties of selling to women have become minimal, as long as you research what's out there. Still think ahead and take the pulse of what women might want next,” says Freedman.
Women sometimes need to allow themselves to buy a new piece. Especially when they think they have enough jewelry, Sahney and Brown observe.
“They may spend a large amount on bags and shoes each season, but there's a bit of a mystery about jewelry,” Brown says.
“We've come so far,” Sahney adds. “We must continue to empower women to honor themselves and embrace their desire for personal shopping.”.
The 4 absolute prohibitions when attracting the female buyer.
Never turn up the pressure and share all the information you can. Allow customers to try on a piece to make them feel comfortable. After you discuss their collection and what to pair the piece they are interested in with. Then the decision is theirs to make.
Don't assume they'll buy right away, even if they fall in love with the piece. Some women need to think about it or go home and see what else they have before committing to a purchase.
At a jewellery show or event, don't ignore the women who are less involved in trying on pieces. Talk to them and learn more about them as people. These women may be novices at buying for themselves and may need time to become more comfortable with the process.
If a woman in overalls and no makeup comes in, don't write her off as not being serious or lacking buying power. These women may have dropped their kids off at school or had a dentist or gym appointment. These are the women who may become your best customers over time.
