The hit Netflix series “Wednesday” has garnered a record number of views. It has also launched its star Jenna Ortega into the fashion stratosphere. At the same time, it has revitalized gothic fashion in the mainstream.
Ortega plays the eponymous character Wednesday Addams of the iconic Addams family.
Together with her stylist Enrique Melendez they have created a series of memorable press tour appearances. These rival and impress as much as her on-screen alter ego.
The head-to-toe black ensembles are reminiscent of the famous child of sorrow who eschews color. While the mesmerizing jewelry with natural diamonds is all Ortega. Glittering gemstones from houses like Tiffany & Co., Bulgari and Delfina Delettrez completed her vampy looks and cemented the “glam” in goth glamour.
And Ortega isn't the only one feeling the dark side lately. January Jones also grabbed attention at the Empire of Light premiere in a Rodarte hooded gown. While it was impressive enough on its own, it was made more alluring with the addition of cascading Delfina Delettrez natural diamond earrings and rings.
Delfina Delettrez 1987 Loop Tennis Earrings Delfina Delettrez 1987 Loop Tennis
Elsewhere, the softer side of the trend is demonstrated by Alexandra Daddario in the premiere of the upcoming Mayfair Witches series on AMC. The actress wowed with a dazzling headband turned choker.
It contained approximately 28 carats of old mine-cut diamonds in a collar arrangement to complement Dior's lace dress. In fact, the convertible piece (along with the diamond rings) came from Jewels by Grace. With an existence of over 100 years ago, during a remarkable period in fashion history.
Modern scream queens may embrace goth chic, but the aesthetic is also reminiscent of another queen. The dark days of her reign and the timeless jewellery style that Queen Victoria bred.
To pay tribute to her husband Albert, who died in 1861, she led the country through a 40-year period of mourning in the second half of the 19th century.
She expressed her grief for her loved one through fashion, dressed in black clothes to reflect the mood. The restraint of dark attire is a compelling canvas for striking jewelry.
“It was the original “influence” and started the mourning jewelry trend as a fashion,” says Nicole Corsini, marketing director of Lang Antiques in San Francisco. Lang Antiques carries a huge selection of authentic Victorian jewelry.
Mourning jewelry was a somber suggestion to honor individuals who have died. But they became a romantic announcement to preserve the love story of someone under the influence of the mourning monarch. The jewelry expert created beautifully ornate pieces that were filled with sparkling natural diamonds and gemstones and full of meaning.
“There were many common motifs in Victorian mourning jewellery,” Corsini explains. “Sometimes they chose the elements for their symbolic names, such as “weeping willows” or “forget-me-not” flowers.
They used pearls and diamonds to represent tears. Black enamel was generally used in tribute jewellery for adults. While white enamel symbolized the purity of a child or a single person. It was common to use the hair of the deceased, either in braided designs or as the actual medium of art.”.
While Victorian mourning jewellery is undeniably sentimental and for poets at heart, Wednesday Addams would certainly be fascinated with a similar style of jewellery known as memento mori. Dating back to the 16th century and translated from Latin to mean “remember that you will die”, the macabre pieces are less ominous than they appear.
“Despite the reference to death and the somewhat macabre motifs such as skulls and skeletons, the intention of these jewels was actually more hopeful. As a reminder to live every moment of one's life fully,” explains Corsini.
He also notes that the pieces were usually gold with an enamel design and may have incorporated pink, single or old-cut diamonds.
We move on to today. Steeped in history, antique mourning and memento mori jewellery continues to intrigue and inspire. Designers and jewellers offer elaborate or contemporary versions. A new generation of jewelry collectors who cannot resist the undeniable romance of natural diamond jewelry and appreciate that beauty can be found in the dark.
