In recent years, Melissa Kaye has been a pioneer in the discussion about colour in jewellery.
Whether it's sculpting the enamel in unexpected neon hues, or delving into a pastel palette. The New York-based designer is not afraid to venture into new color territory.
Her latest collection combines bright, coloured gemstones with her signature enamel.
By its nature, each piece in the new “Lenox” collection is unique in its own right. With each carefully selected gemstone having its own enamel halo in line with the designer's trend.
“We've had amazing success with the neon collection since its launch in 2019 and have continued to expand it in different lines. But there was always the question of “What's next? What's the next neon?” said Kaye.
“I wanted to keep the theme of our strong colour palette, but also introduce something new. And that's where the vibrant oversized gemstones came into play, adding another bold colour.”.
Paraiba-type tourmalines, for example, are framed by green enamel for a tropical tonal look or surrounded by hot pink enamel for unexpected contrast. A pink sapphire can be framed by the same almost bright pink enamel or a yellow neon tennis ball.
Kaye has always followed her instincts when combining shades and thus creates her own rules.
“It was important for me to choose gemstones that we could combine well with our signature fluorescent enamel,” he explains.
“The ones we chose - vivid pink sapphires and spinel, rubies and tourmaline [Paraiba-type] - all have a neon quality in themselves. We have then paired each gemstone with a complementary enamel. Whether it's a shade that creates a more monochromatic look or something that has more contrast and intensity.”.
Lenox also marks Kaye's venture into creating more distinctive and unique pieces.
Although she has a distinct look and taste for gemstones. She is also willing to work with her clients' existing pieces, repurposing gemstones from family heirlooms, for example.
“The shapes are ideal for customization,” Kaye said.
At the launch, the Lenox collection includes spicy cocktail rings and delicate tennis necklaces with gemstone pendants. The pendants are also designed as replacements for the necklace's clasp.
“I like to create pieces that have an interesting function. So the enamel and gemstone elements in the tennis necklaces are detachable clasps. So it can be changed, giving customers the opportunity to collect them and change them to suit their mood.”.
Rings start at $9,400 and go up to $28,650, while pendants start at $16,850 and go up to $28,450.
