The historic jewellery houses of the city of Paris have presented all of their summer 2024 high jewellery collections with precious stones.
Chopard
Chopard got off to a glamorous start by presenting fine jewellery at the house's private hotel, right next to Place Vendôme, which is usually reserved for VIP guests. There, it unveiled its new red carpet collection entitled Contes de Fées (Fairy Tales). The collection debuted at the Cannes Film Festival.
Indeed, there were many pieces suitable for a fairy queen (or king). A long colourful sautoir necklace inspired by the fairy tale of Beauty and the Beast made of polished precious beads. It contained a pendant rock crystal, which enclosed a blooming flower of rubellite, tsavorite and diamonds. Like the glass cloche that protected the enchanted rose of the Beast in the famous fairy tale.
Meanwhile, another dazzling round-cut rubellite weighing over 17 carats was in the centre of a cocktail ring. He held aloft a yellow gold and diamond bezel. Even two charming frogs (future princes?) with deep emerald bodies and flexible titanium limbs.
But the piece that stole the show was an elaborate necklace that looked like a wreath of oak leaves. Its twisted branches bore golden acorns and sparkling gemstone berries - perfect for any elfin aristocrat.
Dior
More enchanted gardens existed at Dior, where Victoire de Castellane had dreamed up a new collection, “Diorama & Diorigami”. Inspired by Christian Dior's eternal love of flora and fauna, as well as his use of toile de jouy fabric.
In the “Diorama” chapter, a striking necklace hid carved deer and swans made of crystalline chrysoprase among its dense white diamond foliage. While his matching earrings featured squirrels and rabbits among tiny clusters of pearl blossoms.
Another collection, depicting a sapphire forest, is inhabited by mysterious foxes with diamonds. While a third, which mimics a lush ruby flower bed, features a family of sparkling owls and tiny golden hedgehogs.
Meanwhile, in the “Diorigami” chapter, the creatures are depicted in a less graphic way. With mother-of-pearl butterflies and diamond-shaped rabbits roaming a more picturesque garden of geometric plants.
Chanel
With the Paris Olympics approaching, Chanel also celebrated the 100th anniversary of Gabrielle Chanel's groundbreaking and sporty costumes for Diaghilev's Ballet Russe production of “Le Train Bleu”, inspired by golf and swimming attire. The designer's own hobbies of horse riding, golf and fishing, as well as her use of easy and practical fabrics such as jersey and tweed, led the house to launch the new Haute Joaillerie Sport collection.
Lightweight, diamond-encrusted jewelry crafted with high-tech aluminum accents in vibrant hues that move freely with the body, quick-release catches like clasps and carabiners inspired by sports equipment, and playful “pull cords” with gemstones derived from athletic sweatshirts. Chanel's signature number 5 motif also makes an appearance, in a timepiece-inspired font, on a necklace, ring and brooch, while racing stripes and award-worthy stars lend a bold, colourful effect to other pieces, such as a graphic sleeve, open-collar necklace or two-finger ring.
Tasaki
Like Dior, Tasaki's high jewellery collection was a game of two halves. The first took the form of a collaboration with the Ritz Hotel in Paris - its gilded and ostentatious décor and its roster of glamorous guests and clients (everyone from King Edward VII, Coco Chanel and Ernest Hemingway to F. Scott Fitzgerald, Maria Callas and Audrey Hepburn) has provided the Japanese manufacturer with ample inspiration to create explosive trails of gold and white diamonds (as in the Lumineux earrings) and lavish stacks of the brand's signature Akoya pearls (as in the Harmonie necklace).
Tasaki's second piece, titled Atelier 7, spoke to the maker's respect for the ocean that provides his shimmering pearls. Here, sweeping arcs of white gold, embellished with multicoloured gemstones, represent the sunlit waters of a secret cove, and long trails of aquamarines, tanzanites and blue spinels and diamonds echo the deep hues of the sea.
Gucci
This year, Gucci took inspiration from the graphic forms of a garden maze with ‘Labirinti Gucci’. Framing colourful gemstones with geometric arrangements of precious metals and diamonds, as classical landscape artists tamed nature into “ordered splendour”, results in a collection that is at once dazzling and measured, spectacular and symmetrical.
The new motifs include a dragonfly with gems in its shell, never before seen on Gucci's menagerie (which is usually inhabited by bees) and a retro-looking variation of the GG logo, which adds a new graphic dynamism to many pieces.
Mikimoto
As the creator of the cultured pearl, it makes sense that Mikimoto's haute couture collection would be filled with rows and ropes of the glittering gem. What's breathtaking is the imagination and artistry of the manufacturer's creative team. Which is able to dream up ever more fantastic thoughts using the finest pearls. For this year's high jewellery collection, “The Bows”, they have been redefined into fruity, fabric collars, belts and ties. But also in silky rosettes and romantic, lacy collars and brooches that could be worn by both women and men.
Standout pieces included a fringed ribbon collar and a mint-coloured central tourmaline. A shoulder necklace of white gold and cultured pearls, which fell as fluidly as a silk cape. Another necklace of pearls with six strands and a central tanzanite motif, which could be detached and worn separately as a brooch.
Chaumet
Music and magic meet in glamorous form for Chaumet's latest haute couture collection, “Chaumet en Scène”. Inspired by the rhythm, choreography and even the physical score of dance routines. The new graphic pieces translate movement into precious metal and gemstones.
The Tango Suite evokes the wonderful atmosphere of a duet with peppermint tourmalines and pink rubellites. They are joined within swirling loops of white gold and diamonds. While the Ballet Suite evokes the graceful movement of a troupe performing Swan Lake. With ripples of white gold, all set with blue sapphires.
Another chapter is entirely devoted to magic, with lots of tromple l'oeil effects. Made with elegant gold spins, decorated with diamonds and the three classic gemstones - emeralds, rubies and sapphires.
Piaget
To celebrate its 150th anniversary, Piaget launched an exuberant new collection entitled “Essence of Extraleganza”. Featuring designs inspired by its rich heritage. Here were pieces that channeled the good vibes of the house's creative heyday in the 1960s and 70s. Like an incredible fringed necklace, set with diamonds and polished orange carnelian chips. All supported by elaborate loops of glittering yellow gold. Or a tasseled rope necklace that was filled with polished beads of shimmering turquoise.
The 96-piece collection also included new high jewellery watches. Also ornate cufflinks and long sautoir models to add a retro inspiration. One piece that stood out was a convertible cuff bracelet. With a gold mesh that hid a dazzling turquoise watch dial underneath. Showcasing the house's masterful work in gold, watchmaking and gem-setting expertise all rolled into one.
Tiffany
Following the launch of the first part of Tiffany's new “Blue Book” fine jewellery collection, “Tiffany Celeste”, comes another chapter dedicated to the pioneering work of Jean Schlumberger and his love of cosmic motifs.
In this “summer” section a series inspired by shooting stars is presented. Featuring archival star designs crafted in yellow gold that have diamond “tails” as if running across the sky to deep purple amethyst.
Another series, called “Flame”, evokes solar flares with a brilliant array of mixed-cut diamonds that refract light from every angle. And polished gold spins that look like they're exploding into the atmosphere.
Messika
With super-XL chains, diamond-encrusted collars and statement earrings, Messika's creative director Valerie Messika has envisioned the next chapter of the festive Midnight Sun collection, which draws inspiration from a night out at Studio 54.
This second part, “Opus II”, imagines the end of the evening. As the revelers leave the club and head into the early hours of the morning, playing with the contrast between light and shadow with precious metals and diamonds.
See stunning collars covered entirely in brilliant diamonds in a snow arrangement and featuring impressive center stones, huge thick chains that would make Mr. T to shame (including oversized versions of the brand's iconic So Move motif, with its dancing center diamond, as worn by Bad Bunny at the start of Sewing Week) and precious beaded bracelet versions worthy of any New York disco diva.
De Beers
Lions, zebras, giraffes, giraffes, antelopes... a menagerie of wild animals is the focus of De Beers' new collection of fine jewellery, which draws its design elements from the creatures that inhabit the plains of South Africa, where the company sources its diamonds.
Rather than being merely illustrative, these new jewels evoke animals in more innovative and subtle ways. The giraffe and zebra lend their famous fur patterns to sets of beautifully abstract jewelry. They are adorned with a mix of rough and polished stones. The leopard lends its magnetic look to a jewellery set with almond-shaped motifs, or a pair of lovingly braided elephant trunks give curved contours to pairs of earrings set with white and pink diamonds. Even the legendary lion's mane has been reimagined as a lovely fringe of textured yellow gold beads in a necklace for the collar, ring, earrings, and in a transformable hairband.
Graff
Only diamonds, emeralds, rubies and sapphires always make it into Graff's fine jewellery collections. Why? Because they are traditionally the rarest and most sought-after gemstones, and what Graff does best is to showcase and frame their beauty with technical precision.
Take for example her 25 new pieces of high jewellery. They're inspired by the clean lines of modernist architecture to provide deceptively simple (but technically complex) white gold frames for white diamonds. Yet another stunning kite-shaped emerald weighing over six carats in a cuff. Or a matching set of fancy yellow oval-cut diamonds in a captivating “sweeping” necklace.
Playing with scale and shape minimizes the amount of visible metal. But it allows these individual stones to appear to magically float on the skin. After all, why mess with perfection?;
Pomellato
On the other hand, polished baroque-shaped gemstones in a variety of rainbow hues. They are cleverly held in place by almost invisible claws. Also the cheerful arrangements of sweet pink, orange, red and amber spinels. But also the clashing colour patterns allude to the bohemian and artistic attitudes of the city's iconic creators. Like Gio Ponti or the Memphis group, who have given Milan its cultural soul.
Boucheron
Always one of the highlights of haute couture week, Claire Choisne's high jewellery designs for Boucheron. They never fail to enchant and delight. But the Place Vendôme witch really outdid herself this season. With a stunning collection of white diamonds and rock crystals inspired by a trip she took to Iceland.
Titled Or Blue (blue gold), the collection is dedicated to water. The earth's most precious resource, in all the various incarnations that Choisne encountered in her Arctic exploration. A rushing waterfall has been redesigned as a “Cascade” necklace set with diamonds. Nearly a metre and a half long, with a diamond “tail” also extending below the shoulder blades.
Meanwhile, the circular ripples created by the water drops have become a sculptural necklace collar. Adorned with “rings” of white diamonds, as well as a pair of matching “droplet” rings. They create the illusion of water falling into your hands. Another piece, a black textured necklace, interspersed with shimmering bands of diamond “foam”, is made entirely of compressed black sand, similar to what Choisne sees on Icelandic beaches. And one of the most dramatic pieces of all, the monumental Iceberg necklace. It owes its icy patterns of mountain crystal droplets to the glistening blocks of ocean ice that adorn the polar coastline. An incredibly cool collection, which brought a breath of fresh air to the hottest and most suffocating heat of Paris.
Source: somethingaboutrocks.com
