These fancy gemstones are based on the extraordinary clarity of diamonds. This will create a window effect that is quite striking when seen in person. Because they don't have facets like round-cut brilliant-cut stones, they don't have the sparkle that we usually expect from diamonds.
Instead, they are artistic, refined and more for show than for high brilliance.
Let's explore some great examples of portrait cut stones from world-renowned designers.
The round brilliant-cut diamond is undoubtedly beautiful. But there is something experimental and unexpected about high jewelry creations with portrait cut stones. These long, thin slices of rows of carbon atoms are nothing new. They are a modern interpretation of ancient Indian lasque diamonds. These are ultra-thin sheets of diamond that shine like a body of water.
Modern portrait cuts have minimal facets along their outer edges. They are similar to the steps of an emerald cut, but are much more elaborate. The goal is to look into a smooth, flat and clear sheet of diamond that looks like a miniature sheet of glass.
In the lasque tradition, this kind of stones are used like the glass of a photo frame. That is to protect and preserve a portrait underneath.
We also see it in contemporary designs, such as Kelty Pelechytik's Portrait Diamond collection. Where hand-painted eyes look out from the centre of the rings.
We could even describe it as a valuable version of the doublet. A term usually associated with layers of gemstones and sometimes glass to create a composite.
In writing this article I remembered the first time I discovered this unusual diamond cut. It was when I was working at Boghossian 10 years ago. The Swiss jeweler used this cut extensively in his signature Kissing collection.
The “Kissing” technique involves placing two gemstones in harmony with each other. So that they appear to be embracing in a delicate dance.
Each one complements and enhances the colour and beauty of the other,” explains the brand's website. Since one gemstone is placed on top of the other, it is crucial that one of them has a flat surface to accommodate another gemstone above or below it. This is where the portrait cut diamond comes into play.
Elsewhere, Lorenz Baumer exploits the large flat surfaces of portrait cuts to create unique images. Such as logos, letters and shapes that he engraved into his collection of “tattooed” diamonds.
In these pieces, portrait cut gemstones are not an alternative to glass. They are a literal glass canvas on which to create works of art, such as a pair of boxing gloves or an anatomical heart.
At VAK Jewelry, we see examples of portrait cut diamonds in kite, hexagon and triangle shapes.
When combined with brightly coloured gemstones, these crystal clear gemstones look almost alien and futuristic. It's as if they were transported from another jewelry landscape.
Because they are so thin, portrait cuts are lightweight and don't require heavy precious metal settings. We can see the benefits of this throughout the VAK Jewelry line. Where the stones often seem to float or fall like drops of water from the ears and wrists.
This minimalism is the hallmark of many designers who use portrait cut diamonds extensively. Like Eva Zuckerman of New York-based Eva Fehren. Her gemstones are set into feminine engagement rings with narrow diamond rows. Even on thin, hug-style earrings for “barely there” sparkle.
For women whose personal style is understated and austere, a diamond portrait cut is likely to be a tempting choice.
After all, a large portrait cut gemstone can look serene and sophisticated. Contrast that with an almost overly sparkly cushion-shaped or oval-cut 10+ carat stone. For example, actress Rooney Mara is known to have a portrait cut diamond engagement ring. So that fits perfectly with her intensely private and understated public profile.
But diamonds should never be singled out for just one thing. Leading jeweler Alessio Boschi uses portrait cut diamonds to evoke something ancient and treasured in his Medusa composition.
A cocktail ring with diamonds and emeralds is adorned with a 3.07-carat potrait cut diamond cap. Which opens to reveal a micro mosaic depicting the mythical mermaid Medusa.
This piece and its matching necklace are a far cry from the overt futurism of other brands that use portrait cut gemstones. Rather, they are inspired by antiquity.
Similarly, instead of going the minimalist route, jeweller Moussaieff became a total maximalist. With a pair of chandelier earrings with portrait cut diamonds.
Sparkling lines of white and pink briolette diamonds fall from the ears. They pass just behind two pear-shaped portrait cut brown diamonds, creating a magnifying glass-like effect. These gemstones are 42.11 carats and are framed by a naturally shaped frame of white pavé diamonds.
It is easy to get distracted by these plans. So forget the basic qualities of a rough diamond to become a cut and polished potrait cut stone.
Such a large, open surface means that there is nowhere to hide the inclusions! Even the slightest imperfection will be enhanced with this cut compared to a more “forgiving” round brilliant.
Then, probably, at first glance, people might think they are seeing a rock crystal or even glass. The potrait cut may not be for you if diamond recognition is high on your wish list.
Independently, we can all agree that the potrait cut is another ingredient in the diamond recipe. One that gives designers and jewelry lovers more options, inspiration and opportunities for beauty.
Personally, I appreciate its revolutionary nature. After all, despite its contemporary minimalism, it represents the antithesis of modern diamond cutting. Sacrificing the reflective shine for something smooth and shiny. When you wear a potrait cut, you are defying convention and declaring that you will not follow the crowd. What's not to like about it?;
Written by Sarah Jordan
Source: www.katerinaperez.com
