So it's no surprise that many directors pay special attention to the clocks on their characters' wrists. If you watch a Christopher Nolan film in recent years, there's a good chance you'll spot some Hamilton watches.
The Hamiltons are prominent in both Interstellar, Tenet and now Oppenheimer.
In some ways, this is the movie in which it makes the most sense for the characters to wear Hamilton watches. For one thing, the action is in America and Hamilton was based in America until 2003. Then it became part of the Swatch Group and moved to Switzerland. Secondly, it is a film based on historical events. As such it fits much better with Hamilton's earthy aesthetic than sci-fi adventures.
Speaking of history, a key feature that Nolan wanted to achieve in terms of the watches in his film was that they were all accurate vintage period models. While Hamilton's archives are rich, they don't necessarily contain screen-ready pieces from the 1940s and ’50s.
Therefore, he turned to well-known collectors and enthusiasts to obtain the watches. In the same way one could research and source a grail watch that one would like to add to one's personal collection. Although “Christopher Nolan wants your watch in his movie - Hamilton” is better than “how much do you want it?” - Steve from the internet.
In the end Hamilton managed to secure six stunning vintage watches for the film, so let's take a closer look. The first three are all worn by Cillian Murphy in his eponymous role as J. Robert Oppenheimer and are the Cushion B, Endicott and Lexington.
The Cushion B, as its name suggests, features a cushion case design that screams retro American style.
In the same spirit is the Vacheron Constantin American (1921). You want to get behind the wheel of a classic car and devour a New Mexico highway. Finished with a white dial and oversized Arabic numerals.
Next is Endicott, which is a little more refined. With a round shape in bronze gilt with matching numerals and hands. It also features a more complicated dial with a sub-dial timer at 6 o'clock for seconds. This gives it a more precise feel. The feel of a watch that a scientist working with precision instruments could actually use.
Oppenheimer's last watch is the Lexington, which is my personal favorite of the trio.
A steel model with a round shape, small crown, black dial and white numerals. It has a more military feel. Like the successor to a Dirty Dozen field watch, but with enough Art Deco influence to remain civilian.
What power in a film about the infinite grays of human morality to have a black and white clock. A physical representation of Oppenheimer's dilemmas about good, evil and the bomb.
The next two watches Hamilton provided for the film are worn by Matt Damon as General Leslie Groves, Jr. The Military Ordinance and the Piping Rock.
We mentioned a while ago the Dirty Dozen and Military Ordinance. It could well be its American cousin, at least in terms of style.
It is made like a tank with a thick rim and oversized crown. It is built to withstand the trials of adventure and conflict. The dial itself is extremely legible in black and white, just like the Dozen. If the Lexington left the military to embrace civilian style, then the Military Ordinance is a lifelong veteran.
Damon's second watch is the Piping Rock, which is the most unusual watch in the film.
The body of the clock itself is circular. But it is set within an open tonneau frame that ends in a wide projection. This makes it look larger and more imposing, while the dial and display are relatively subdued. A bezel with Roman numerals, a minute scale with rails, very well-shaped hands. It's military for a parade of formal events, not military to set off a bomb.
The latest vintage Hamilton to star at Oppenheimer is the Lady Hamilton A-2. In 14-karat gold, as worn by Emily Blunt in her role as Kitty Oppenheimer.
It is incredibly delicate with a rectangular design of 13.5 x 15 x 8.7 mm in an ultra-thin bracelet. Although it's worth pointing out that all the watches here are very small by modern standards. The Cushion B. is just 26.7mm and the Military Ordinance is the largest at 32mm. We often talk about watches that are 38/37mm as “vintage proportions”. But be aware that the real vintage pieces might be much smaller than that.
One thing is for sure, the Oppenheimer promises to be a watch watch watcher's dream.
Source: oracleoftime.com
