The aptly named Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery offers five sections. Each is dedicated to a “weave”. It is also adorned with iconic symbols of the house, such as camellia flowers, ribbons and comets. Let's explore these jewellery stories and see what pieces the house has in store for us.
We know Gabrielle Chanel had a passion for Venice (note her 2021 Chanel Escale à Venise High jewellery collection). But her interest in the hills and dales of Scotland is perhaps a lesser-known inspiration.
During a romance with the Duke of Westminster in the 1920s, Chanel spent her time as an aristocrat. Then she encountered green landscapes and Scottish tweeds in abundance. She carried these traditional fabrics into her collections and today tweed is one of the fashion giant's most important materials.
“Tweed owes its name to the River Tweed on the Scottish border. Gabrielle Chanel took it and made it her own, bringing its comfort to her elegant and sporty clients. Thus was created one of the most essential features of Chanel's style vocabulary.”.
In 2020, the tweed made its first appearance in the world of Chanel jewellery thanks to a collection of 45 pieces. Today, the concept returns with 63 new pieces of high jewellery. They are dedicated to the “magic of tweed” and decorated with diamonds and coloured gemstones. Of course, we have to thank Patrice Leguéreau, Director of the Chanel High Jewellery Creation Studio, for this!
His creations interpret handmade supple yarns, embroidery, fringe and checkerboard patterns. They even play with the idea of monochrome and multicoloured fabrics to create the impression of depth and movement. Elsewhere, there are lacy reliefs and references to iconic Chanel motifs. Namely the lion's head, camellia flowers, white ribbons, fiery patterns and vibrant yellow suns.
“For this new High Jewellery collection dedicated to tweed, I wanted to go further in realisation by creating a real gemstone fabric that is light and supple,” said Patrice Leguéreau, Director of the Chanel High Jewellery Studio.
The Tweed de Chanel consists of five sections. Each of them is dedicated to its own “weave”. Among them are plastrons, necklaces, necklaces, sautoirs, bracelets, brooches, rings and earrings in named collections. There is also a special necklace - the Tweed Royal - which is described below. Before dealing with each chapter, it is worth mentioning the craftsmanship shown here.
Tiny and miniature hoops, rings and links of gold and platinum threads add elasticity to the materials. This allows them to behave more like fabrics. The company explains: “The interweaving of gold, pearls and gemstones, the variety in stone sizes and the play of the perforated design together recreate the velvety, textile thickness of the tweed. Its comfort and softness, meanwhile, reflects the work done specifically on the back of each piece.”.
Tweed Soleil
The sun has long been a motif in the world of Chanel. So the presence of vibrant yellow gemstones is almost expected in her luxury jewellery. Here, we see the clash of tweed and “Byzantine and Venetian grandeur” in three collections. Tweed Cambon, Tweed Byzance and Tweed Soliare. There is also a remarkable Tweed Icône ring (a signature piece in each set of the Tweed de Chanel collection).
A pair of Cambon earrings combines structural diamond elements in yellow gold with solar rays of diamonds in platinum. And they end in kite-shaped drops of rock crystal. At Tweed Byzance, we find a brooch, a ring, a bracelet and earrings with heady, mixed-cut yellow beryls. Even round-cut brilliant-cut diamonds in woven patterns. Another highlight at Tweed Solaire is a brilliant Imperial topaz choker and matching ring with additional yellow beryls and diamonds.
Tweed Lion
As a Leo by birth, the lion has always appealed to Gabrielle Chanel. It therefore proved to be a constant theme - an emblem - in her life and works. The Tweed Lion chapter is bursting with red, orange and yellow hues. In three collections - Tweed Gabrielle, Tweed Lion and Tweed Royal. The latter is described as the “centerpiece” of the entire Tweed de Chanel collection. And more specifically the Tweed Royal necklace.
A woven plastron masterpiece of diamonds, 37 rubies and a three-dimensional lion's head, adorned around the neck with a gold chain.
The heart, a 10.17 carat D-colour, type IIa pear-shaped diamond drop of 10.17 carats. It is located at the focal point (this stone can be detached and worn as a ring, while the lion's head can be worn as a brooch). But the rest of the set includes a bracelet that can be worn as one or two pieces. Also an asymmetrical ring and earrings with lovely fringed ruby beads.
Let's not forget the Tweed Gabrielle, which includes a necklace and a bracelet. With large garnets of speckled garnets and yellow sapphires. All woven in yellow gold and platinum, and the Tweed Lion collection with rubies, spessartite garnets. Still yellow sapphires, spinel and diamonds on a brooch, asymmetrical lion head earrings and a ring.
Tweed Étoile
The comet, the emblem of “Bijoux de Diamants”, the first and only High Jewellery collection created by Gabrielle Chanel in 1932.
The comet motif is well-known to fans of Chanel High Jewellery. The Tweed Étoile chapter is an ode to these worldly travellers. With black and blue hues, yellow diamonds and sapphires that evoke the night sky.
The Tweed Astral collection includes a ring with a large central blue sapphire. Still polished black onyx and yellow diamond stars. All with backs of woven diamonds and a necklace of emerald-cut yellow diamonds.
The Tweed Étoilé homonymous pieces are striking and contemporary. Layered with layers of sapphires, black onyx, diamonds and yellow gemstones. But they are most pronounced in an incredible sautoir beaded necklace. And finally, the Tweed Céleste is the same pattern with sapphires, black onyx, yellow stars and round brilliant cut diamonds. They lead the eye to a pear-shaped diamond drop on a statement necklace paired with matching earrings and ring.
Tweed Ruban
The fourth chapter of Tweed de Chanel is translated as “Tweed Ribbon”. It uses the idea of weaving these fine threads with fabric as a creative starting point. This entire jewelry presentation has only colorless diamonds in light, perforated settings, accented by cultured pearls in white gold.
The Tweed Pastel collection contains a feminine trio of a necklace, ring and bracelet with oval-shaped diamonds, round brilliants and pearls. While the Tweed Ruban had a more graphic approach with similar cuts and materials.
At Tweed Perlé, we see rows of diamonds and cultured pearls that resemble a waterfall. They run through a brooch/pendant, earrings and a necklace, which can be turned into a bracelet. Finally, the Tweed Mademoiselle radiates with mixed diamonds. Such as marquise, round, oval and baguettes that hug the neck, finger or wrist.
Tweed Camélia
The latest chapter of the Tweed de Chanel collection captures the ultimate Chanel symbol - the camellia flower. Here we find five sets. Each in shades of powder pink and fuchsia sapphires, contrasted with 18-carat rose gold and white metals.
The Tweed Pétale are a quartet of jewellery. It includes a plastron necklace, bracelet, earrings and ring in tones of pink, pink and white.
Tweed Poudré is denser in its colour combinations, with less empty space. Also more concentrated pink in a brooch, necklace, ring and climber earrings.
But it's hard not to be tempted by the Tweed Dentelle earrings with large pear-shaped diamond drops. As well as round, marquise, oval and baguette cut diamonds in asymmetrical settings. One has a camellia flower and the other a grid of tweed gemstones.
However, in our opinion, the piece of durability is the eponymous Tweed Camélia necklace. It also features a braided frame of rose gold and diamonds, interspersed with pink sapphires in oval, pear and round shapes. Also a camellia flower in rose gold and finally a “diamond lace” camellia flower. This can be removed and worn as a brooch.
So we'd have a hard time choosing a favorite piece from this latest Chanel high jewelry collection, so we'll let you decide! The convertibility of her necklaces, the femininity of the designs and their three-dimensional construction make for a beautiful and complete statement for summer 2023.
Source: katerinaperez.com
