Trends may seem like commercial restrictions on creativity and uniqueness to some. While for others they can be a useful guide to translating their vision for the end consumer.
The most successful trend adopters choose one or two trends they like and ignore what doesn't suit them. Most importantly, they always interpret what's in style through their own lens. They thus leave their aesthetic signature on every trendy style.
The designs below are examples of jewellery that incorporate some aspect of a trend into a collection. But they also maintain the identity of the creator, with trends serving as guiding inspiration rather than a hindrance.
Invocation
Designers' current love affair with colour is itself a macro trend. It is evident in the prolific use of coloured gemstone inserts among brands such as Mason & Books, Sorellina, Jacquie Aiche and Retrouvai.
For the designers who have long considered the insert as a trademark of the brand, we're used to seeing plenty of lapis lazuli, turquoise and malachite.
Today, these materials are just the starting point for many more unique gemstone options. Think: pink opal, moss agate, chrysoprase and chalcedony - the more unique or unusual, the better.
What is interesting about the insert is its practical element. The use of large pieces of colored gemstones, and often of less expensive varieties, is an economical alternative to gold or many multi-faceted, more expensive stones
However, this trend does not seem to be wise. Instead, it exudes a cheerful, maximalist, gemstone-filled look.
Mason & Books uses all kinds of inserts in its jewellery collections. These are related to sweet, childlike motifs, such as a ladybug, a bow and a heart. While the style remains the same, each piece is inherently one of a kind. Depending on the stone supply from designer Jamie Books.
Mason & Books is a great example of mixing stone detailing and inlaid gemstones, combining the best of both styles.
This trend is also a signature for designer Kirsty Stone's brand, Retrouvai. She has always used inserts in her collection. The “Lollipop” range, in particular, hosts a multi-faceted gemstone within a “halo” inlay. The look is bold and ripe for interesting color combinations.
Sorellina, the brand run by sisters Nicole and Kim Carosella, has made the stamped ring its own. Which isn't easy. Using an inlay she completes it with diamond and gold letters and symbols. The style has been a big hit that can also be found on pendants.
Jacquie Aiche, meanwhile, makes the insert look like a brand. With her hippie-style mosaics that amount to upscale jewelry for flower children.
Look out for designs with multiple inserts using layers of inserts, à la Orly Marcel, and the tiger eye, which is making a comeback after not being popular in recent years.
Enamel
A few years ago, enamel as a trend reached its peak. With almost every new collection from an independent designer featuring an enamel element in their lines.
Now, the trend has settled down to a healthy buzz. With many brands using the colourful possibilities of materials. Though this is about their vision and not out of pressure to get on the train.
Like the inlay, enamel is a way to experiment with many colours without paying a fortune. Plus, while gemstones must be sought out, designers can create their own custom enamel shades to fulfill their artistic visions.
Melissa Kaye was undoubtedly the leader of the trend. She pioneered colors that were simply not found in the fine jewelry market, such as hot pink and bright yellow.
After showing neon shades, he moved on to pastels. Buyers, and customers, responded to all of this. They proved that no creator should limit themselves to the tried and true for fear that new designs won't sell.
Designer Selim Mouzannar masterfully shows how to present a trend in his own way.
If Melissa Kaye is modern, Mouzannar's eponymous brand is an ode to tradition and antique techniques.
Her take on enamel is niche shades combined with different gemstones or highlighting an engraved guilloche pattern. Consequently, the feel is completely different.
The jewelry cocktail
A bold diamond or gemstone in a thick gold setting is nothing new.
And yet, designers are having a frenzy with the cocktail ring. They're experimenting with placements and gemstone selection to give the style, which dates back to Prohibition, their own twist. The mood is bright and lively, very post-pandemic and festive, bringing to mind poolside drinks in Palm Springs.
The style is a replacement for what we used to call the “right hand ring”. With the buy-it-yourself, new consumerism in jewelry, instead of jewelry just for engagements and anniversaries, there is no need to define ring styles.
The look is so popular that she created a relative of it, the hanging cocktail.
Gemella manufactures stunning gemstone pendants in a thick gold frame on their signature heavy ball chain. While Retrouvaí's new “Loop” rings are the brand's latest innovation that make a simple gemstone ring look completely unique.
Arielle Ratner's “Power Pinky” is undeniably classic and elegant, and like the rest of the jewelry, super bold. But also for everyday wear, not just for special occasions.
Waves
Taking a step back from color to include diamonds and metals in the discussion, there has been a big change in the shapes recently. Graphic, geometric patterns are giving way to more organic, wavy looks.
This trend is a good practice for establishing the identity of one's brand. For a company that has been heavily influenced by Art Deco, it's ideal to pass it by. For designers who resonate with curved lines, the trend is great.
Today's waves in jewellery reflect a trend that has taken over home decoration in recent years. With product design inspired by the curves and not-so-serious shapes of movements like the Memphis Group of the 1980s.
With the trend for softer angles in furniture and home design - such as the revival of Italian architect Ettore Sottsass' curved mirror - it was only a matter of time before some designers came up with their own versions of jewellery.
Up-and-coming brand Ondyn has its entire range based on swirly, sensual shapes. With almost every piece being modular and moving with its wearer, Ondyn fits perfectly into wave-like designs.
Aurelia Demark's “Ric Rac” collection is an elegant and sculptural take on wavy shapes. With the wavy bracelets and textured rings resembling heirloom pieces.
For her 15th anniversary collection, Jemma Wynne transformed simple cuffs and bracelets into a wavy pattern with diamonds and coloured gemstones.
heavy metal
Bulky gold cocktail jewelry is the perfect segue into the next trend, the current passion with heavy metallic designs.
One brand that is at the forefront of this aesthetic is Brent Neale. With her rich interpretations of “gypsy-style” antique rings, in which the stones are almost fused.
Like most trends, the style itself is not brand new. As there are so many ways to make and wear jewelry. Trend-starters are known as such because they have revived a style that is not currently common. Or they have created something unique to it.
Brent Neale's love of gold has many more voluminous gold holdings. Such as succulent, rounded frames or his fan-favorite “Petal” ring. In all of these the metal and stone are equally important in the design.
Bespoke jewellery designer Jonne Amaya uses the word “metal-prominent” to describe her work. This is the antithesis of a classic diamond ring on a pin - an apt term to describe the trend.
Lindsey Scoggins creates distinctive stone frames that are provocative in many ways, but use a lot of metal.
Rings with two stones
A heavy gold frame is applied to all categories of jewellery, including engagement jewellery such as engagement rings. Similarly, a two-stone ring is a big trend for rings, especially for wedding bands.
This trend is most likely a trickle-down look from Ariana Grande and Megan Fox. So they debuted two-stone engagement rings in 2021 and 2022, respectively.
As the style entered the cultural mainstream, many couples decided they wanted their own toi et moi ring.
A wonderful aspect of the two-stone ring trend is that it easily adapts to any company's brand aesthetic and does not require reinventing the wheel. A diamond solitaire can easily become a two diamond ring.
Two-stone rings have long been a fundamental part of Jemma Wynne's work. Often featuring the signature white diamond and emerald combination of designers Jenny Klatt and Stephanie Wynne Lalin (and many other variations since). Some of the brand's more recent two-stone rings have been more bypass-style.
Darius, creator of jewellery inspired by antiquity, incorporates unique and rare stones into her two-stone rings and even her earring studs.
Uniform Object, meanwhile, is the perfect example of making a two-stone ring your own. In her designs, the two center stones are often not even flush. With one on the side of the ring and several small pavé stones scattered throughout the piece.
Briony Raymond's two-stone style is perfect for everyday wear. It still incorporates a very thick gold frame with the charm of toi et moi.
Playful nostalgia
Millennial designers are extremely nostalgic for their childhood and are often inspired by the 1980s, 1990s and 2000s.
While the effect is playful, it also strikes an emotional chord because of the associations. This tendency can be interpreted in a matter-of-fact or in a more abstract way.
Brand Boochier, for example, redefines the classic Slinky toy as an elevated, elegant version in hoop earrings, bracelets, rings and necklaces. In diamonds and gold, and sometimes colored rhodium, the inspiration isn't exactly obvious, taking on a life as an abstract pattern.
Aisha Baker's “First Love” collection combines colourful gemstones with beautiful symbols covered in enamel. Such as flowers, hearts, four-leaf clovers and fish. The colours and shapes are undeniably youthful.
Even Alina Abegg's approach to the future, the “Alien” ring, has its roots in a childlike depiction of otherworldly visitors that older generations recognise as a mid-century interpretation of the same.
Overall, the trend is rooted in entertainment. It reflects the fashionable spirit that luxury need not be serious.
Unisex
On the men's jewellery front, the biggest trend is more about breaking down barriers than a new style.
Inspired by professional athletes and style icons-in-the-making such as Harry Styles and Timothée Chalamet, men - especially in Gen Z - are wearing styles that in recent decades have become associated with women, such as a classic pearl necklace.
When a customer can visualize the look - say, seeing a professional baseball player wearing a pearl necklace during the World Series - they can picture it to themselves and shop accordingly.
The brands have taken this into account. Many feel that all or most of their offerings have always been unisex, but traditionally women have bought them. So they are reshaping their business.
Once you see State Property's luxurious chains, seductive signet rings and ingenious pearl jewellery on a man, the absence of jewellery gender is self-evident.
So instead of launching a collection that identifies it as «men's», the brand, designed by the team of Lin Ruiyin and Afzal Imram, debuted a campaign in 2022 that shows their jewelry on men's models.
Brands like Lizzie Mandler now incorporate both men and women in their campaigns. The classic pinky rings and luxurious gold pendants created by The One I Love brand are must-haves for all genders.
Source: nationaljeweler.com
