Five years have passed since the sale of Marie Antoinette's 18th-century pearl necklace for more than £25 million. It was the highest amount ever paid for natural pearls.
Sotheby's returns to Geneva with Vienna 1900: An Imperial And Royal Collection, a sale of more than 200 pieces of jewellery belonging to the noble European royal families who gathered at the court of Vienna. That's where the legendary Empress Elizabeth of Austria, better known as Sisi, and her husband Francis Joseph I were.
Sisi's favourite pearls and rubies abound in the vast and glamorous collection.
Part of it was rescued by the Soviet army from Dzhovana of Savoy, wife of Bulgarian Tsar Boris III. Ak by her daughter-in-law Princess Eudoxia, daughter of King Ferdinand I of Bulgaria.
Three diamond-shaped star-shaped pins, similar to the ones Cissy wore in her hair when she posed for the Franz Xaver Winterhalter portrait that cemented the legend of her beauty, are likely to be among the most sought-after items. But the highest bids of all will surely be attracted by nature's largest natural pearls.
A devant de corsage in the shape of a wreath. Another large brooch designed to be worn on the bodice, filled with huge pearls in the shape of a drop. They are held together in a floral brooch arrangement with diamonds.
He was offered to the daughter of Archduke Albrecht, Duke of Tesen. One of the military advisors to Emperor Franz Joseph I after her marriage to Duke Philip of Württemberg in 1865. Presented in its original case signed by the Viennese jeweller Emil Biedermann. He was the Habsburg family's regular supplier, expected to fetch £400,000.
Even more sizable pearls falling framing an ethereal tiara of dazzling diamonds is expected to fetch over £250,000. It was created by the Viennese jeweller Köchert, a member of the Habsburg court. It is believed to have been a gift from Francis Joseph I to Archduchess Maria Immaculata of Austria-Tuscany. Given at her marriage to Robert, Duke of Württemberg.
The descendant of the family Philipp von Württemberg, who worked on the sale with Sotheby's, recounted the family tradition. According to him, the Archduchess's pearls caused the envy of Sisi. He nicknamed her “Perlenfischerin” (or “pearl fisherman”) in reference to how often she received pearls as gifts from the emperor.
Andres White Correal, deputy chairman of Sotheby's, says the pieces have a unique combination of high quality and exceptional provenance. “Such historic jewellery often moves people to tears,” he says.
Köchert's pearl tiara in particular “is breathtaking not only for its ethereal aesthetic, but also for the craftsmanship behind it”. As London-based jeweller Lily Gabriella Elia says. She grew up helping her grandmother and mother collect jewellery.
“With beautiful natural pearls and diamonds that complement the versatility of its detachable pieces. Made by none other than the most famous Viennese jeweler of the era.”.
From European aristocracy to Hollywood royalty.
The star piece of Christie's upcoming online sale is a necklace. The necklace features choker-style pearls and cabochon sapphires. Which Audrey Hepburn in the classic film Roman Holiday.
Max Fawcett, head of the jewellery department at Christie's in Geneva, also says the necklace was created by Fürst. Its value is estimated between 16,000 and 24,000 pounds. It was part of a selection of jewellery presented to Audrey Hepburn. It was personally chosen by the actress to be worn in her role as Princess Anne.
Hepburn's neck is adorned with the Fürst choker during the final scenes of the film. Where she also meets journalist Joe Bradley, played by Gregory Peck.
Once the film was over, Hepburn returned the necklace to Fürst accompanied by a signed photograph of her wearing it. The necklace was then sold to private collectors who have now consigned it to Christie's.
Alongside the Hepburn necklace, Christie's offers a wide range of Cartier jewellery. Even items from the most sought-after Art-Deco period in the Magnificent Jewels sale.
The star of Christie's public auction is the 17.61-carat Bleu Royal blue diamond, which is expected to fetch around £31 million with an estimate of around £31 million.
“Blue diamonds are incredibly rare,” says Fawcett, “With this size and this degree of saturated colour, we're talking about just one stone among millions of stones. So it's the largest ever offered at auction.”.
But for its first jewellery sale in Geneva, Phillips is offering a 20.19-carat, fancy bright pink diamond ring, VVS1, worth more than £13 million. There's also a very charming - and slightly more affordable - Bulgari demi-parure from the house's Monete collection, decorated with ancient coins - from £28,000.
Source: vogue.co.uk
