Only Watch is one of the premier events for watches, a charity auction once every two years. It sees top watchmakers from around the world create unique 1 to 1 watches. The sale of these watches raises money for Duchenne muscular dystrophy research.
For 2023 the auction has an extremely colourful theme. Something that the first watch we look at has certainly taken into account. It's the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Revolution 4th Dimension.
As a quick note, the watch is technically dual signed as a Jacob & Co. x Concepto Watch Factory watch. With Concepto Watch Factory being J&Co.'s main partner for the movement. It's a nice way for the brand to celebrate the groundbreaking work Concepto has done this year. With models like the Astronomia Revolution and now the Astronomia Revolution 4th Dimension.
It's probably obvious from the names, but the 4th Dimension is essentially a separate version of the previous Astronomia Revolution. So it takes the idea of the world's fastest satellite tourbillon and pushes it a step further. It is powered by the JCAM 54 manual movement with a power reserve of 36 hours. It replaces the double-shaft tourbillon of the original Revolution with a triple-shaft tourbillon. But this combined with the arm rotation makes it the world's first quadruple-shaft tourbillon.
The analysis of what the four axes of motion are is a little difficult to describe. Because all four rotations occur simultaneously.
The most obvious rotation is the movement of the satellite arm around the dial, which occurs every 60 seconds. Then there is the normal rotation of the tourbillon also every 60 seconds.
In addition, the tourbillon case also rotates in a straight line and perpendicular to the satellite arm at 18 and 15 second intervals. It looks quite impressive, especially when placed inside the brightly coloured case. And then, as if that wasn't enough, it also features a patented constant force mechanism. This ensures a consistent flow of power through the mechanism.
This case has a diameter of 47 mm and is made of rose gold. But the amazing element is the base under the main satellite (technically the back plate of the movement). It is made up of 35 gemstones in contrasting colours each with a unique and non-standard cut. These have been positioned so that the side of the corner is highlighted.
So he takes all the traditional gemstone placement ideas and throws them out the window to create an extravagantly stunning stained glass look.
It reminds me of the special effects from the Dr Strange movies, which is probably another reason why the name 4th Dimension is appropriate. The gemstones themselves are a combination of garnet esonite, yellow citrine, blue sapphire, sapphire, tsavorite, garnet rhodolite, topaz and garnet pyrite.
It's big, it's pompous, it's honestly a little crazy. It's everything you could ask for in a piece of unique Jacob & Co. for charity. While there is sometimes criticism of J&Co. being too ostentatious and over the top, when it comes to the Only Watch there is no such thing.
This is an opportunity for brands to go a little bit off the beaten track and do something crazy or experimental. The world's first 4-axis tourbillon and a crazy gem-set version certainly qualify as a great Only Watch. All Only Watch watches will be sold at auction on November 5.
Specifications:
Model: Jacob & Co. Astronomy Revolution 4th Dimension
Case/drum: diameter 47mm x 27mm thick, 18K rose gold case, engraved case, skeletonized dial with blue polycarbonate, rose gold set with 35 custom-made gemstones (esconite, garnet, yellow citrine, blue sapphire, sapphire blue, chavoritis, rhodolite, garnet topazolite, garnet pyrope)
Water resistance: 30m (3 bar)
Motion: Jacob & Co. caliber JCAM 54, manual winding, 485 parts
Frequency: 21.600 vph (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 36 hours
Functions: Hours, minutes, Tourbillon
Luraki: Blue alligator leather with 18-carat pink gold buckle
Availability: Unique piece
More details at Jacob & Co.
Source: oracleoftime.com
