The wonders of the world, past and present, are a huge source of inspiration for most jewellers and Lalaounis is no exception. Like many others, Maria Lalaounis, design director of the Greek family business Lalaounis, travels beyond her own country. Her aim is to create both figurative and abstract designs inspired by a wide range of subjects from art to nature, architecture and the animal kingdom.
But there is much more to Lalaounis’ plans than meets the eye. Unlike other houses, jewellery making techniques play an extremely important role. Dimitra Lalaounis Auersperg, co-CEO and director of international operations, explains. As much as we are known for jewellery with a Greek heritage from eras and cultures such as Minoan, Mycenaean or Byzantine, we also place great importance on techniques. It is both the design and the techniques that define our jewellery. For example, in a Hellenistic-inspired jewellery piece with the knot motif of Hercules, we will use hand weaving and grain weaving techniques that were used at that time. While a Neolithic torque choker will be made with hand hammered gold.
But the ingenuity doesn't stop there. Lalaounis crosses and mixes and combines techniques and eras.
A Minoan style of gold beads could be made using the gold hammering technique from the earlier Neolithic period. Or a bird, typical of the Hellenistic period with fine grain marks, sitting on a modern square end.
This approach, which combines different design styles with a range of construction skills, is so distinctive that it has set Lalaounis apart. So much so that it is fair to say that Lalaounis has created a style all its own.
It wasn't always like this in the lab when founder Elias Lalaounis ran the company. “My father wouldn't have done something like that,” explains Lalaounis Auersperg. He was more faithful to the techniques used in each period. Today, in addition to telling stories, we also experiment with ways of working gold and have added the aspect of mixing techniques and styles. While we may be inspired by a particular era, we can make it in ways that are not associated with that era. We are always finding ways to make jewelry more interesting for our customers and for us.
At Lalaounis, a collection never dies, but evolves through a constant search for new design inspiration, as well as experimentation with manufacturing methods.
Despite these constant redefinitions, any jewellery bearing the Lalaounis stamp is surprisingly easy to identify. All of this is only possible thanks to Lalaounis' unique creation process, in which the design team works hand in hand with the goldsmiths in the Athens workshops. The revival and evolution of ancient craftsmanship contributes to both the look of Lalaounis and its designs.
Lalaounis Auersperg says: “my sister Maria, the creative director, does not create like others who would normally hand over a perfect, finished design to the master jeweller. It is a constant collaboration between her and the jewellers. Our relationship is very much hands on. We have an idea, a vision or just a theme and we come up with some basic designs, but from there we work closely with the jewellers to come up with an initial concept that captures what we want to express. This adds a lot to the piece, as it's a conversation between the design team and the workshop that allows the design to achieve the greatest expression of both the idea and the craft. We also put a lot of effort into testing how comfortable the jewellery is on the body and adapt traditionally difficult techniques to make it more wearable.
Theory confirms the final results and below are ten Lalaounis jewellery pieces that convey the spirit of the company's design and production process.
1.Neolithic ring inspired by tools.
2. Hercules Knot necklace.
3. Petal ring.
4. Earrings with Minoan beads.
5. Earrings of Helen of Troy.
6. Byzantine bracelet with rubies.
7. Gold pendant from Nubia.
8. Square ring with a bird.
9. Snake ring.
10. Aurelia chandelier earrings.
Source: thejewelleryeditor.com
