Jewellery from Cartier or Bvlgari, or a ring meant for a Pharaoh?;
This is the question posed by Christie's auction house. It is preparing an auction of unique gold necklaces, rings and other jewellery from ancient Greece, Rome and Egypt. Jewellery that costs far less than modern pieces from famous luxury designers.
The rare historical objects, most of which can be worn, belonged to people who lived in pre-Christian times and are shrouded in mystery.
«I'd rather have an amethyst necklace with a strong historical presence than something else that everyone will wear and look commonplace.» Hannah Fox Solomon, an expert and head of Christie's antiquities department, told the New York Post. «You could wear it and have a unique, special piece. And not the one that all your friends wear,» she added.
Instead of a Cartier bracelet, a set of bracelets from ancient Rome
For example, compared to the classic Cartier Love Bracelet, which costs $8,000 and is beloved by celebrities and fashionistas, Christie's estimated that a set of gold bracelets from ancient Rome is expected to go for $4,000 to $6,000 at the February 4 auction.
A trio of gold rings - one depicting a sphinx, the other made like a tiny replica of a lantern. The third resembles two heads and is expected to sell for $5,000 to $7,000.
Although their entire history is unknown, the pieces being auctioned were part of the Kofler-Truninger collection. They were owned by the couple before being sold to a private buyer and are estimated to be nearly 2,000 years old.
Similarly, an amethyst bead necklace from ancient Egypt, dating from the 1st century BC to the 1st century AD. It is expected to fetch $6,000 to $8,000. Well below the cost of a modern onyx Alhambra necklace with 10 motifs from Van Cleef & Arpels, which goes for nearly $9,000.
The mystery earrings from ancient Greece
Two pairs of earrings are also expected to be sold at the auction. One, which comes from ancient Greece, features eagles made of granular gold sitting next to tiny birds made of green enamel. The price is expected to reach $10,000 to $15,000.
The other pair, from the Geometric Period, around 750 to 725 BC, look like gold discs with a hollow in the centre, where a gemstone could be found. They also resemble an earpiece, though many say they look like bluetooth earphones. «They're incredibly rare,» Solomon says. «They're earrings, but how they're worn is up for debate.».
These earrings, of which there are only three known examples today, are expected to fetch $10,000 to $15,000. Despite the mystery of how they are worn.
But why are they so affordable? Certainly not because they are not valuable, says Solomon. «Ancient jewelry is much less expensive than what retail is right now,» she said. In fact, some of the ones that come up for auction are extremely rare. «It's not like a Warhol where you say: ”I love this print ... I want one that looks exactly the same,”» he said.
A gold necklace from ancient Greece, the most expensive piece of jewellery in the auction
However, the most expensive item to be auctioned is a gold necklace from Ancient Greece. The necklace is adorned with pendants that resemble beech tree fruit attached along the length of the necklace. The piece is expected to be auctioned for $20,000 to $30,000.
The elaborate gold necklace dates back to the Hellenistic Period. A time, Solomon explained, when Greek culture became «very rich». Previous metals were highly valued and jewellery as a whole was «at its peak».
«Wearable art»
Although he could not determine exactly «how much it would cost a day's wages» to make a piece from this collection - or how expensive the jewellery was at the time of its origin - he does not believe that its price was prohibitive for the economic elite of the society of the time.
«I think there were several people who wore this,» Solomon told the New York Post. «I imagine the gold and also the time it takes to make this would make it more expensive.».
The most impressive part of the collection is not only the price. The pieces, for the most part, can be worn, Solomon says, and calls them «wearable art.».
Some, however, have been or can be modified in order to be worn.
For example, a jeweller can put an extender on a necklace if it is too short, or bracelets can be made into earrings. The amethyst necklace, for example, has been reconnected and a modern clasp has been fitted, «which is the nice balance of how you can wear ancient jewelry,» he added.
As for the nearly 24-carat gold pieces, he warned that they are incredibly soft, so they are not ideal for everyday wear.
Today, gold is usually sold for less carats because it has been mixed with other metals to make it more durable, he explained.
The expert and head of Christie's antiques department advised that when wearing ancient pieces, wear them on «a special occasion», such as a gala or dinner with friends, «instead of doing the dishes».
Source: www.iefimerida.gr
