Art that has been filtered through the minds of designers throughout history. And it has even been transformed into extraordinary works transcending traditional forms over time.
Born in 1989 in Florence, Italy, a city famous for its cultural and historical texture. Marco grew up in a family with a passion for travel and exploration. This environment allowed him to immerse himself in classical Latin and Greek at an early age. Thus shaping his dream of becoming an archaeologist and also deepening his interest in design.
Florence's ancient history and the fact that it was home to radical design movements were among the main factors that shaped Panconesi's aesthetic perspective and creative vision.
His family is full of craftsmen, including his grandfather, who was a carpenter. They taught him to have a deep respect for materials. His cousin introduced him to high art techniques, such as gold leaf and wax sculpture.
In 2011, Panconesi began his career by obtaining his fashion design diploma from Polimoda. He began his professional journey working in Givenchy's accessories studio. He then became known as a jewelry and leather goods designer at Balenciaga. Since 2016, Marco has been recognized as an independent designer. He worked with famous brands such as Mulberry, Mugler, Peter Pilotto, Fenty and GmbH.
In Panconesi's jewellery designs, simple aesthetics and complex architectural structures coexist. The simple shapes of the jewellery - circles and spirals - are actually the reflection of a deep, thoughtful design process.
Each piece is made using natural ingredients such as gold, silver, pearls, stones, crystals and enamels. Each piece changes and takes on a new form, moving with the body. Panconesi masterfully combines this dynamic and ever-evolving understanding of form with his deep passion for ancient techniques. Reinterpreting classic methods such as en tremblant with a fresh, modern style. This 18th and 19th century technique sets diamonds in an arc with thin metal wires. Allowing the stones to catch the light from different angles.
In 2018, Marco set out on his own path, founding the PANCONESI brand in Paris. His goal was to create a lifestyle rather than a jewellery brand. «My desire to start my own brand was born from the desire to follow ideas that could become a whole universe.» He says, aiming to build a unique story and aesthetic into each piece.
The PANCONESI brand presents a jewellery line born from the fusion of tradition and innovation. But also of art and fashion, heritage and radicalism.
With a deep respect for traditional Italian costly jewellery, Panconesi treats his designs as precious objects. Each piece is like a small sculpture that gives movement to the body. By combining earthy tones inspired by nature. With forgotten forms in stones and modern alchemy, legends from the past are brought into the present.
Marco Panconesi was appointed in 2019 as FENDI's Director of Jewellery Design. But he still follows the tradition of collaborative design. In 2021, under the creative guidance of Giovanna Engelbert as Swarovski's Design Director, the designer is breaking the mould with his innovative and bold vision.
Source: goldbookmagazine.com
