The day I met Akunna Nwala-Akano of Nigerian brand AKANO in London, she was still smiling from a chance meeting while watching the BAFTA awards the night before.
The creative director of a major Italian High Jewellery Maison had spotted Akunna wearing the Chikaodili suite set. With turquoise and diamonds and wanted to pass on her compliments. This would probably please even the most experienced designer. But it is particularly encouraging for Akunna, who only set up her jewellery business in the midst of the COVID-19 pandemic.
Since then, he has built a thriving brand. Enriched with large gemstones. A huge personality with aspects of Igbo culture and language.
Below are some of the highlights of our first meeting and the jewelry I came across.
Experiencing culture through jewelry is one of the most rewarding aspects of my professional life. In February, I simply couldn't pass up the opportunity to meet Akunna and discover her Nigerian company High Jewellery. The first one I discovered, especially when the only thing separating us was the English Channel and not a 12 hour flight!
Akunna is a multi-entrepreneur who has grown up the AKANO staying true to her own vision, trusting her instincts. Her designs struck me as meticulously thought out and surprisingly intricate. Something I only point out because of the relatively short time Akunna has devoted to jewellery. A small example of this is her use of pavé diamonds. Rather than simply dusting surfaces with gemstones of the same size, she plays with size to create the impression of volume and dynamism. These are the kinds of details that can transform a piece from good to exceptional.
During our discussion, we also found that we had some very specific things in common. First, we both discovered our love of jewelry through our grandmothers.
Akunna shared with us how her grandmother was a queen and loved jewelry. A fact that helped shape the designer's taste for pieces with wonderful colour combinations, details, harmony and balance from a young age.
«I grew up playing dress up with her jewelry,» Akunna tells me. «I've always loved movies, too, with women like Elizabeth Taylor. I said, one day I'll have jewellery like that to adorn me.» We also both believe in the power of jewelry to instantly elevate an outfit and turn something understated into something powerful. For example, after a night out Akunna met me in rather casual clothes. But she was wearing some statement rubellite earrings and a huge diamond ring that instantly made her look ready to walk the red carpet again!
Before we dive into the jewellery, I want to say how informative it was to talk to Akunna about Nigeria's jewellery culture. From her insights, it's clear that jewelry is perceived as a symbol of status and an expression of wealth. Even background and personal heritage. More than that, however, jewellery is wrapped in the fabric of life. So much so that women like Akunna's grandmother will wear jewellery from the moment they wake up. Even if they have no intention of leaving the house.
“My grandmother adorned herself with five stacks of gold bracelets. Another necklace and earrings. And if I asked her where she was going, she'd say she just dressed up for herself! She didn't need to look good for anyone else. Because first of all jewellery is there to make you feel special,” Akunna recalls.
Today, she has inherited the same sense of dressing for herself. And to feel special through jewelry, making her a woman after my own heart!
AKANO is a glamorous but thoughtful brand. By that, I mean that the jewelry makes a statement, but it's not ostentatious. There is a significant quality to the pieces Akunna creates. Whether they are more appropriate for daytime stacks of diamonds or colorful present for a black tie occasion.
The codes focus on gemstone selections. Such as warm rubies (a more affordable source of deep red in larger sizes compared to rubies). Also emerald zambias and bold combinations of turquoise and chavorites, among other color blends.
The necklace in the Chikaodili Suite can be transformed thanks to an extension. Allowing it to be worn in both a larger and smaller variant. In addition, there are two pairs of earrings to choose from. Large studs or drops, both feature a trilogy of turquoise, chavorites and diamonds.
Then there's the Mkpulu necklace, earrings and matching ring. With wings made of Zambian emerald cabochon that look like they're growing from a diamond branch. In Igbo, the name of this collection means «seeds». And Akunna says she found inspiration in the dewdrops found on the leaves.
She also introduced me to the Nko necklace or «hook», the matching ring and earrings. I have to admit that this was my personal favorite. With a large 54 carat rubellite and a 5 carat heart shaped rubellite above it to symbolize the «hook in my heart».
All these are surrounded by ribbons of rubies from blood pigeon. To capture the idea of blood ties and strong emotional bonds. And surrounded by white diamonds set in 18 carat gold.
Finally, I would like to mention another piece - the Mkpo necklace or «potion» - repeating an elixir pot through a 75-carat rubellite, surrounded by colourless diamonds and a loop of ruby channel set. The proportions are perfect, ensuring that despite the colossal size of the central gemstone, everything feels harmonious and feminine.
To achieve these complex pieces, Akunna completes a rough sketch and then her team prepares a CAD rendering to see if it matches her vision.
She then turns to another company to calculate each gemstone required, down to the smallest pavé diamond. Some of her stones come from Nigeria, while others come from Burma, Zambia or from polished stone dealers in Asia and Antwerp. Finally, she works with two family workshops outside Nigeria to bring her pieces to life.
What impresses me most about Akunna is that she is self-taught and relies on instinct and innate talent to bring whatever she has to her imagination. As someone who has also learned along the way, just by reading, observing and reacting to the jewelry world around me, I can really see (and feel) how much passion has gone into AKANO. I can't wait to see how the brand evolves in the future.
Source: katerinaperez.com
