It is hard to imagine that anyone would tolerate such chauvinism today. But 100 years ago and even up until the 1950s it was not at all lady-like for a lady to sneak a peek at the time on her watch when she was with a gentleman. Perhaps this was taken as an indication that the lady was tired of her partner's company and so it was considered rude.
As a result, women began to wear watches that refer to high jewellery, mainly bracelets, brooches and sometimes swatches.
It was the 1920s, when long rows of pearls and gorgeous Art Deco diamond designs were all the rage. Hidden in plain sight, these dazzling watches then became extremely fashionable. Although some of the dials under their beautiful covers were such delicate work that one could barely read them, and discreetly so.
This kind of mentality is a thing of the past in our more liberated society. But the trend of Secret Watches has made a remarkable return in the last decade to high watchmaking as luxurious expressions of personality.
At the EE BAFTAs earlier this year, Jaeger-LeCoultre ambassador Anya Taylor-Joy wore the Rendezvous Ivy Secret Watch. It was cleverly camouflaged in an elegant diamond bracelet.
A month later at Watches & Wonders in Geneva, the luxury watch brand unveiled the exceptional Reverso watch. With Art Deco enamel (originally a sports watch designed for polo players). Where the dial and case flip up to hide the time, while revealing a decorative design on the back. A kind of secret watch.
At the same event, Chanel presented its latest Mademoiselle Privé Bouton designs. They focused symbolically on the sign of Leo where the fashionista was born and made in the métiers d'arts workshops. A button adorned with the golden face of the lion is slid aside to reveal the time on black titanium bracelets, a sautoir with diamonds and onyx or a leather strap.
A few months ago, Dior and Chaumet unveiled their newest designs for their secret watches. Chaumet's Souveraine and Maharani designs are traditional wristwatches. But the sparkling aventurine dials are covered by pear-shaped diamond motifs. But also pave diamond sets, which can be moved aside when necessary.
Dior's art director Victoire de Castellane, meanwhile, tapped into the house's couture heritage. She created lacy diamond floral floral covers for the La D de Dior Dentelle flower-shaped watch on a diamond bracelet.
Bulgari's new Mediterranea fine jewellery collection breaks away from quartz. For the first time, it utilizes its extremely fine and miniature movements and includes secret watches. In particular a striking Monete Canete dual time with two ancient Roman coins hiding the two dials.
Van Cleef & Arpels has been making secret watches since the 1920s. The most recent and popular Perlée secret pendant watches are now available with emerald, sapphire or ruby covers.
In haute horology, it has revived the Ludo secret watch, which was originally a gold ribbon bracelet design from the 1930s that honored Louis Arpels' nickname, Ludo.
The first Ludo watch appeared in 1943. But the house, ever inventive, upgraded it with a specially adapted spring mechanism. When you push it to lift the diamond-encrusted blades and reveal the time. How clever is that!
The iconic Reverso watch, originally created for the wrists of polo players in 1931. It is reimagined in this limited edition with key design elements on the back of the distinctive Art Deco rotating case.
The Secret Watch Monete Catene Dual Time by Bulgari with two mechanical miniature manual winding movements made by Piccolissimo.
A diamond design with a sliding cover for Chaumet's Secret Watch Maharani, inspired by a necklace the house created for the Maharaja of Indore in 1913.
Source: thejewelleryeditor.com
