Some 50,0000 watch enthusiasts and collectors will descend to see the hottest creations from Rolex, Patek Philippe, Cartier and many others. Here are the three big key trends from the so-called Olympics of the watch world that everyone should have on their radar.
Timeless jewellery
Gemstone watches will be the focus of attention. Jewellery is being lauded as one of the most resilient categories in the current downturn in luxury goods consumption. So this comes as no surprise.
Dior and Tiffany & Co were pioneers when they announced the trend of jewellery with gemstones in January at High Fashion Week. The Grand Soir Automate Miss Dior watches combine an automatic movement with Dior's haute couture tradition. The dials are adorned with Monsieur Dior's sketches depicting the Belle de Mai dress. He imagined it for spring/summer 1954, but also the Palmyre dress, from autumn/winter 1952.
Tiffany, meanwhile, has unveiled five new fabulous jewelry watches. Two of which chronicle the Bird on a Rock, the house's iconic brooch. Designed by Jean Schlumberger in 1965, it now spins delightfully on a dial with a flick of the wrist.
At Watches and Wonders, Cartier's Panthère collection was updated with another dazzling design. With animal prints that will surely catch the eye. «We try to work on the panther's posture, to express its movement, telling a story with the watch.» Explains Marie-Laure Cérède, creative director of jewellery and watchmaking at Cartier. The house is also debuting the Tressage. A new collection of jewellery watches featuring a great charm of twisted polished gold. While some models are embellished with sapphires and diamonds.
This year, Van Cleef & Arpels celebrates the 90th birthday of the Cadenas clasp watch. One of the style makers« favourite watches, which has long been a favourite of the genre. The latest iteration of the Cadenas, which means »padlock" in French, comes in a stunning version with pavé diamonds accented with sapphires.
Chopard, meanwhile, highlights its signature L'Heure du Diamant collection. Literally translated: the «diamond hour» collection. Which comes with a chunky diamond bezel made with a special bezel and V-shaped pins for extra sparkle. Yet another new campaign featuring Bella Hadid completes the offering.
Elsewhere, Jaeger-LeCoultre adds technical means to the combination. The limited edition Reverso One Precious Colours required 60 hours of enamel work. But also another 40 hours to set the watch's 277 diamonds.
Necklace watches are also trendy. Piaget's new sautoir from the 1960s has a vintage style. With gold rope details and a white opal dial. Chanel, meanwhile, hangs watch dials from choker chains or pendant-style necklaces. They're inspired by the brand's aesthetic proposition (think: eyeshadow and lipstick palettes - yes, really).
Calm tones
In times of uncertainty, calm and subdued tones tend to offer a kind of comfort. Check out Mocha Mousse, Pantone's 2025 colour of the year. It makes sense, then, that so many watch brands also offer a gentle mood. With dials and watch straps in natural, earthy and mild pale tones.
Hublot's new Spirit of Big Bang chronographs are now available in natural shades of sand beige, dark green and sky blue. The colours permeate from the porthole-shaped ceramic case to the rubber straps. As well as the hour markers, chronograph counters and hands.
Oris also embraces warm, neutral tones. Introducing a range of new dial colours in the ultra-chic Big Crown Pointer Date collection. There's terracotta and green in pastel styles and a smaller model in beige. As well as deeper tones of yellow, lilac and blue grey.
Grey dolphin is the colour Louis Vuitton chose for the new Tambour Taiko Spin Time collection. The collection was released in January. Featuring the house's signature timekeeping display,inspired by vintage travel paintings found in airports and train stations. The watch is available in six different models. Also including gemstone designs and another one paired with a leather strap in beige.
Sports watches with complexity
Luxury sports watches have been a trend for some time now. But for 2025, several brands are adding extra mechanical power to their signature ranges. Following the revival of the Ingenieur steel sports watch in 2023, IWC welcomed its first in-house perpetual calendar to the collection. Set in a striking blue dial with the Ingenieur's distinctive, engraved grid pattern, it's an elegant tribute to one of horology's most beloved timekeepers.
Meanwhile, Zenith is also celebrating its 160th birthday with a trilogy of its most famous chronographs, all crafted in striking, bold blue ceramic.
The new Chronomaster Sport, Defy Skyline Chronograph and Pilot Chronograph can be purchased as an anniversary set. But if you choose them individually, we'd opt for the Pilot flyback chronograph with its super cool, large date display.
TAG Heuer's new Formula 1 watches (the brand is the official timekeeper of F1), which come in bright colours and are now equipped with the watch company's Solargraph movement. A two-minute exposure to direct sunlight charges the watch for the entire day, while a full charge of around 40 hours will keep the watch running for up to 10 months - even if it's stuck in a dark drawer.
Source: www.vogue.co.uk
