When we first entered the world of Deep Time, we travelled to the geological foundations of the earth. To the beginning of life itself and to lava. Even the molten rock, the oceans, the tectonic plates and the spiraling DNA that led to the creation of flora and fauna. Now, in Deep Time Chapter II, Louis Vuitton Artistic Director Francesca Amfitheatrof presents 50 unique creations. In ten themes that add new twists to her evolutionary poem. Our favourite creations and the minerals they contain are presented below...
Deep Time is Francesca Amfitheatrof's fifth and most ambitious high jewellery proposal for Louis Vuitton. Following the Bravery, Bravery II and Stellar Times collections of previous seasons. The opening salvo of Deep Time presented 170 pieces in two thematic sections. Now we have another 50 creations to enjoy.
This final chapter is more nuanced and thematic, going through small seeds, spiral skin, ancient fossils and everything in between.
But its starting point is something much bigger. The collision of the supercontinents Gondwana and Laurasia and how this meeting of the masses changed the world as we know it. New themes are also present. Like Symbiosis, which is “inspired by the first terrestrial ecosystems of our planet. Namely fungi and mycelium,” according to Louis Vuitton's rich narrative. Here, we see “delicate, rich jewels come to life in beautiful and feminine pastel pinks and purples.”.
“With this second chapter of Deep Time, we continue the story of this most beautiful, poetic collection that symbolizes a vast and incredible history”, Francesca Amfitheatrof.
Overall, Deep Time Chapter II stands out for its sophistication and refinement. It is more intense than Chapter I. The minerals are deeper, earthier and richer. Such as warm Umba sapphires and yellow diamonds in rose and yellow gold. To see this come to life, let's start with one of the stars of the Deep Time show - the Laurasia necklace...
Laurasia
The Laurasia high collar necklace is recognizable Louis Vuitton. With the sharp «V» of colorless diamonds on seven baguette rings in orbit. And round white brilliant cut diamonds in platinum, yellow gold and rose gold. At its heart, the necklace features an internally flawless 5.02 carat yellow emerald-cut diamond. It is topped with a 3.11 carat Monogram flower-cut diamond, which is also D-colored and internally flawless.
Scattered throughout the piece are 34 emerald cut diamonds. They are said to be reminiscent of Maison's Damier motif, and another 270 custom cut diamonds for good measure. The piece took approximately 2. 465 hours to create, making it the most valuable and exclusive piece of jewelry in this second chapter.
If the buyer of this piece wishes to complete the set, there is a 3.02-carat yellow diamond Laurasia ring and a secret triangular-shaped diamond watch, described as «a rare jewel in Louis Vuitton high jewellery».
Drift
We have known the supercontinents and now we watch them move and shift under the banner of «Drift». Here, we find the most understated Drift necklace in white gold. Featuring a 30.47-carat octagonal golden yellow sapphire, originating from Sri Lanka. This sunny jewel is set on two rows of colourless diamonds. Each is shaped with graphic «V» interpolations to ensure a geometric and contemporary finish. A matching 17.22 carat white gold octagonal yellow sapphire bracelet, also from Sri Lanka, is the perfect accompaniment.
Myriad
Amfitheatrof takes us on a more esoteric journey with the Myriad theme, described as «an embodiment of perpetual motion. Where futuristic, hypnotic jewels take their cue from spiraling DNA and double helix forms.».
The Myriad suite continues the preference for white gold from Chapter I with a necklace, matching cuff, ring and several pairs of earrings. Each set with LV Monogram Star-cut diamonds nestled in a woven diamond mesh for versatility and flexibility. The Myriad necklace is a feat of engineering, sitting almost like a Tudor-era bustle on the neck. With white gold «studs» that spiral like DNA from a braided diamond rope. The two diamond tassels that give the front, tied in a neat knot at the neckline, are a romantic touch.
Symbiosis
If we had to pick a favourite piece for his absolute joy, it would be the Symbiosis necklace. Set in white gold with two purple spinels cut into 4.13 carat and 10.11 carat pears. Another pink spinel cut into a 10.03 carat cushion and a purple spinel cut into a 8.46 carat cushion. Also a blue spinel cut into a 10.67 carat cushion, set with LV Monogram and bombé pavé diamonds.
Symbiosis is a new issue and, therefore, starts with a bang here to cause growing fungi, fungal networks and clusters of cells sitting asymmetrically on both sides of the throat. The piece took 1. 381 hours of work, mostly because of the reverse, which features a mushroom pattern that only the user can see. A pair of earrings and rings with clusters of spinels and diamonds complete this suite with an organic slant.
Fossils and Bones
The distinct themes of Fossils and Bones are where meticulous details emerge as key design choices. Mostly through the pergola, honeycombs and diamond mesh.
The minimalist Fossils necklace in platinum and yellow gold explodes with 5.18-carat sapphire and the matching sapphire bracelet. Meanwhile, a separate Fossils bracelet has another stunning 10.56-carat sapphire that is perfectly designed to fit between two clones. One in the Damier motif and the other in the trellis style.
Bones returns to the high collar aesthetic. But this time with a choker of pure colourless diamonds in alternating squares and rectangles, set at different heights. A second necklace is a graphic construction centered on a diamond and star-cut LV Monogram star cut fur. Still with a star cut diamond and further framed with approximately 100 special cut diamonds. But the brilliant combination of white gold and special cut diamonds continues with a ring set and a pair of separate double link cuffs. While a 3.84 carat Paraiba oval tourmaline with a fancy cut. On top is a two strand ring with over 240 diamonds.
Plants & Flower
In the «Plants» suite, we find a transformable leaf necklace set made from over 400 specially cut emeralds and diamonds. As well as a ring in white and yellow gold with a 1.62 carat emerald, 25 specially cut rubies for 2.86 carats and diamonds. The former features three leaves, two of which can be detached and worn as elegant brooches, among 302 special-cut diamonds and 132 Zambian emeralds with a rare blue hue.
Then we return to the flower theme, which emerged in Chapter I through golden fuschia flowers. The repetition of Chapter II is more paired. We also pay homage to the Louis Vuitton monogram with a ring of petals radiating from a star-cut diamond. The rest of this suite includes a stunning pendant dangling from a diamond chain, with over 1. 300 diamonds and 90 custom-cut stones.
Seeds
Seeds - the grains of life - and pearls, the original symbol of fertile fertility, are combined in this thematic aspect of Deep Time. The story focuses on the Seeds double strand tubular necklace in white gold, set with LV Monogram Star-cut diamonds, 1. 200 diamonds and 43 bright Tahitian grey pearls. The cut kite-shaped motif, repeated around the necklace's circumference, «echoes a signature Maison design code» and is also featured on a matching bracelet with 32 pearls.
Skin
Finally, our favorite mineral treat in Deep Time Chapter II is the Skin necklace in rose gold with 83 19.45 carat Umba sapphires and diamonds. Ultramodern, curved and bone-encrusted, this necklace evokes both the skin of a snake and Maison's Damier motif. The deep brown-orange-pink gemstones are sourced from the region around the Umba River in Tanzania. They therefore make a refreshing change from the intense blue sapphires and the cool intensity of the bluish emeralds.
Throughout the Skin suite, there are 300 Umba sapphires, all individually cut as the layouts and designs dictate, from square shapes and lozenges to neat baguettes. Interestingly, this is also the first time Amfitheatrof has dedicated a full jewellery suite in rose gold, with a matching bracelet, a ring and a pair of delicate ear cuffs.
So of course you will agree that this is a fitting continuation of the Deep Time story, which will give us some ideas.
We had predicted that warm-toned minerals would gradually make their way into high jewellery collections in 2024, and when the pieces are this good, we're so glad to be right!
Source: katerinaperez.com
