Meaningful and modern jewellery has increasingly come to the fore. Quiet luxury has been pushed aside by experimental silhouettes, bold colours and maximalist designs. On the red carpet, it is often the jewellery that makes a look stand out. So creativity has become key.
Pearls, in particular, still have a huge appeal. “We have seen 66% increase in searches for pearl jewellery in the last month.” Says Libby Page, market director of Net-a-porter.com. She has put together unusual colours and designs that show pearls in a new light.
Silver, which is much more affordable than gold, is also experiencing a renaissance. “At Net-a-porter.com, we have seen a 50% increase in searches for silver jewellery in the last one year. As our customers are gravitating towards a more minimalist, clean and modern approach to dressing,” adds Page.
Here are five more key trends that are expected to make 2024 a very exciting year in jewellery.
The revival of the choker
Chokers - the narrow necklaces worn tightly around the neck - are back on the agenda. Every recent jewellery collection includes at least one choker, but Dior and Louis Vuitton have several. Uma Thurman wore a Chopard dress made from multiple rows of glittering rubies to the 2023 Cannes Film Festival. While Margot Robbie wore a pearl Assael design to the Barbie premiere.
But it's not just the majestic, bejewelled high jewellery chokers that will be trending in 2024. Vanessa Kirby, who played Josephine in Ridley Scott's epic Napoleon, and Cailee Spaeny, who stars in Sofia Coppola's Priscilla, both spoke of the simplest form of choker: a ribbon that sometimes holds a pendant.
Jewellery for the hand
Gemstone hand ornaments appeared in Dior's latest high jewellery collection. The Parisian house also designed a series of inventive Rose Des Vents pieces. Such as rings attached to bracelets with chains running through the hand. Nada Ghazal and Charlotte Chesnais' modern hand jewellery simultaneously embrace the thumb and the hand. They also echo the fluid lines and abstract shapes of the contemporary sculptures that inspire them.
“We've seen a 40 percent increase in searches for double rings in the last year,” Page says. Double rings can cover multiple fingers horizontally. They can even run the length of a single finger. Or they can take the form of the “toi et moi” style that has increased in popularity. Thanks in part to celebrities like Emily Ratajkowski and Megan Fox.”.
Jewellery inspired by art
Tiffany & Co. has collaborated with American artist Daniel Arsham and Pokémon to create six pendants featuring the popular Pokémon characters Pikachu, Charmander, Squirtle, Jigglypuff, Cubone and Mew - all of which come in a special blue box. “With Pokémon and Tiffany, there's a sense of cultural permanence to each,” says Arsham. He also created a special box for the T1 bracelet with tsavorite dots - a miniature replica of The Amalgamated Bust of Venus of Arles, currently on display in New York.
Venyx's latest capsule jewellery collection that references three masterpieces by surrealist artist Man Ray - The Lovers (1936), Glass Tears (1932) and The Venus Restored (1936) - was unveiled last month at the prestigious Gagosian art gallery in New York. The brand's founder Eugenie Niarchos grew up surrounded by art and has a particular fondness for surrealism, in which “the extraordinary emerges from the ordinary, opening eyes to new perspectives.” Some jewellery by artists such as Hemmerle and Kiaia seems to have been designed as frames for precious small canvases, such as micro mosaics, ancient reliefs, coins or ancient objects.
Jewellery for clothes
In recent months, jewellery has been flirting with fashion. Cartier created a gold cape for Zoe Saldaña. Tiffany & Co. dressed Beyoncé in 150 feet (or 45 meters) of Diamonds By The Yard. Even Chopard co-president and creative director Caroline Scheufele went so far as to launch a capsule collection of couture dresses during the Cannes Film Festival.
Pomellato first introduced a body chain that can be worn over a shirt for work or a dress for a soiree. Messika introduced diamond clip-on threads to decorate trousers or blouses. Ouie, a London-based jewellery start-up brand, offers hoodie toggles in silver, gold or diamond-encrusted that can also be adjusted around the wrist and fashioned as bracelets.
But the most stunning example of the jewelry trend for clothing came from Boucheron in the form of a flexible magnetic pocket with black and white diamond and onyx strips that can upgrade a winter coat, evening dress or a favorite pair of jeans.
Jewellery inspired by food
Apples and crudité charms are at the heart of Loquet's pendants. Also jewelry artist Silvia Furmanovich offers tasty mushroom earrings, made from hand-carved wood and set with colorful gemstones. While a bow-shaped piece of pasta is the focal point of a Roxanne First necklace from the collection aptly named Buon Appetito, the Italian phrase for “Enjoy your meal”.
“I wanted to capture the sexuality of Italian food and combine it with some of the attitude of the female images in the movies and mafia television.” Says Jessica McCormack of her latest project, Carmela, named after Tony Soprano's wife, which recreates swirled spaghetti pasta in diamonds and gold. While in front of his newly renovated home at 13 Rue de La Paix, Cartier serves hot coffee to passersby, inside the Parisian jeweler offers new renditions of Grain de Café, a style loved by Grace Kelly.
Source: vogue.co.uk
