Scattered around the showroom of JW Anderson's collection for Loewe in Paris were six imposing silver and gold sculptures by 81-year-old American artist Lynda Benglis. They were large swirling molten masses of copper-based metals, the shapes of which were repeated in the striking cuffs. These were the accessories for Loewe's spring 2024 collection.
These fine jewellery cuffs, works of art in themselves, were the main motif of the jewellery in the spring collections in Paris. But extreme cuffs proved to be the accessory of the season.
The house of Schiaparelli, does not hesitate in the intensity and brilliance of its gold jewellery in the creative hands of Daniel Roseberry. He presented Brancusi-style cuffs, which were actually (for weight reasons) gold-plated ceramics.
Saint Laurent's famous 1967 saharienne collection was updated for the house by current designer Anthony Vacarello. He added bold gold and silver bracelets that slipped over gloves. Along with the giant doorbell-like earrings and sleek 1980s hair and makeup, Vacarello created a glittering vision of Parisian charm.
Bold metallic bracelets and cuffs have been a feature of runway shows in recent seasons. Though sizes and carved shapes add a new dimension to the look.
Emefa Cole's pair of stunning gold bracelets were created for actress Michaela Coel's appearance at the Met Gala this year. They're made from 18-karat SMO matte gold and share the same organic sculptural quality as the more artistic pieces on the runway.
Elsa Peretti's highly polished Bone cuff for Tiffany & Co expresses the same sculptural quality as the catwalk designs. While Ute Decker's huge swirling mass of shiny silver and gold ribbons shaped into cuffs is a more airy way to turn a wrist into a statement piece.
Buccelatti's rigato engraved cuffs with their silky finish elevate this runway look to high jewellery. As do Dior's mesh cuffs. However, it is possible to get the runway vibe. With the beautifully structured gold cuffs by Robinson Pelham and jewellery artisan Nina Bukvic.
Her handmade handcuffs start as gold wire and chains that melt and fuse together. Robinson Pelham's Galaxy cuff meanwhile is beautifully grained gold and dotted with diamonds. These designs echo the bracelets and cuffs that climb up the models' arms at Rabanne. But not as extreme as the artwork at Loewe and Schiaparelli, but very wearable.
Still the rare 18-carat gold cuff from the 1970s by Georges Lenfant of the “Optical” collection, at Hancocks. Where the gold mesh is hammered in a wave formation, it highlights another point. Even the vintage gold jewellery of the 1970s and 80s, when bold bracelets were all the rage. They also make an excellent scope for some wrist movement for summer 2024.
Source: thejewelleryeditor.com
